What Orange Wine taught me?
The term “orange wine” was first used in 2004 by British wine importer David A. Harvey. Before this, the term was not well-defined, despite the style being ancient, with roots dating back 5,000-8,000 years to the region of modern-day Georgia.
Let’s make it clear, despite the name, orange wine is not made from oranges. It is actually a white wine made like red wine, by fermenting* white grapes with their skins and seeds (and sometimes even with stems). Depending on the winemaker’s choice, some grapes have a short maceration** and some (like Vinho Sorvo) have an extended maceration period with the skins/seeds.
While the name orange wine is the most widely used one today, this style is known by different names in different regions.
Amber or Qvevri, commonly used in Georgia and Eastern Europe
Skin-contact white, used as a technical term internationally, especially among wine professionals
Skin-fermented white, seen in the U.S., is more likely to emphasise the process
Ramato, in Italy, especially in Friuli, is used for skin-contact Pinot Grigio, meaning “copper colored”
In Portugal, you can see on the front labels as “orange wine or curtimenta”, but each Regional Wine Commission has its own rules for official certification. In the Algarve, we are allowed to use skin-contact white wine.
Why orange wine? Making orange wine is slow, takes patience, trust and deep respect for nature’s rhythm. But the result is worth every moment. For me, orange wine is a way to let the grape express itself more. You harvest, you crush and let the grapes sit quietly in the tank. At that point, your work is mostly done. The rest is up to the yeast and the grapes.
You simply wait and observe, then smell, taste and punch down when needed. You wait for the right aroma, the right color and the right moment to guide the next step.
And this slow, skin-contact process is what gives orange wine it’s personality. The time spent on the skins adds more than just colour; it brings ‘tannin’ for structure, ‘depth’ of flavour (dried fruits, tea, herbs, citrus peel), and a savoury edge that makes it a beautiful companion to food.
I did not grow up drinking orange wine, but the first time I tasted one was in Portugal, and something clicked. It felt alive, expressive, and grounded. That moment stayed with me, and in many ways, it led me here. I kept tasting it whenever I saw it on the menus to explore its taste and aromas, and to talk with the winemakers at the wine fairs and try to understand the reason why they choose to make this type of wine.
But what is interesting is that working with skin-contact wines taught me restraint. Sometimes, the best decision in the cellar is to do nothing. Just trust in the grape, the season, and time itself, as with most things in life.
Have a question about Orange Wine ? I'd love to hear from you.
Savor the sip,
Zeynep
Lisbon/August’25
*fermentation is the natural process where grape juice turns into wine, the yeast eats the sugar and produces alcohol.
** maceration is the process of letting grape skins stay in contact with the juice after crushing.